Exhaustion may be the only determinant of climbers performance

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Exhaustion may be the only determinant of climbers performance

The maximum time an athlete takes to become exhausted while climbing may be the only determinant of his/her performance, reveals a new study.

Up till now, performance indicators for climbing have been low body fat percentage and grip strength. Moreover, the existing research was based on the comparison of amateur and expert climbers.

The new study led by University of Granada researchers and conducted over 16 high-level climbers shows that the time it takes for an athlete to become exhausted is the only indicator of his/her performance.

The researchers assessed the climbers with body composition tests (weight, height, body mass index, body fat pc, bone mineral density, and bone mineral content), kinanthropometry (length of arms, hands and fingers, bone mineral density and bone mineral content of the forearm), and physical fitness tests (flexibility, strength of the upper and lower body and aerobic capacity measured at a climbing centre).

They found no significant differences between expert and elite climbers in any of the tests performed, except in climbing time to exhaustion and in bone mineral density, both of which were higher in the elite group.

«Therefore, the maximum climbing time to exhaustion of an athlete is the sole determinant of performance», Vanesa Espaa Romero, the main author of the work and researcher at the University of Granada told SINC.

According to experts, a fundamental characteristic of sport climbing is its «vertical dimension», making it unique given its postural organisation in space, and from a physiological point of view, the effect a gravitational load has on movements.

In short, to complete a climb successfully, athletes should maintain their effort for as long as possible to improve their chances of reaching the ultimate goal.

The study is published in the European Journal of Applied Physiology.
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Exhaustion may be the only determinant of climber’s performance

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Exhaustion may be the only determinant of climber\’s performance

The maximum time an athlete takes to become exhausted while climbing may be the only determinant of his/her performance, reveals a new study.

Up till now, performance indicators for climbing have been low body fat percentage and grip strength. Moreover, the existing research was based on the comparison of amateur and expert climbers. he new study led by University of Granada researchers and conducted over 16 high-level climbers shows that the time it takes for an athlete to become exhausted is the only indicator of his/her performance.

The researchers assessed the climbers with body composition tests (weight, height, body mass index, body fat pc, bone mineral density, and bone mineral content), kinanthropometry (length of arms, hands and fingers, bone mineral density and bone mineral content of the forearm), and physical fitness tests (flexibility, strength of the upper and lower body and aerobic capacity measured at a climbing centre).

They found no significant differences between expert and elite climbers in any of the tests performed, except in climbing time to exhaustion and in bone mineral density, both of which were higher in the elite group.

«Therefore, the maximum climbing time to exhaustion of an athlete is the sole determinant of performance», Vanesa Espaqa Romero, the main author of the work and researcher at the University of Granada told SINC.

According to experts, a fundamental characteristic of sport climbing is its «vertical dimension», making it unique given its postural organisation in space, and from a physiological point of view, the effect a gravitational load has on movements.

In short, to complete a climb successfully, athletes should maintain their effort for as long as possible to improve their chances of reaching the ultimate goal.

The study is published in the European Journal of Applied Physiology.
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Exhaustion may be the only determinant of climber’s performance

Escrito por

Exhaustion may be the only determinant of climber\’s performance

The maximum time an athlete takes to become exhausted while climbing may be the only determinant of his/her performance, reveals a new study.

Up till now, performance indicators for climbing have been low body fat percentage and grip strength. Moreover, the existing research was based on the comparison of amateur and expert climbers.

The new study led by University of Granada researchers and conducted over 16 high-level climbers shows that the time it takes for an athlete to become exhausted is the only indicator of his/her performance.

The researchers assessed the climbers with body composition tests (weight, height, body mass index, body fat pc, bone mineral density, and bone mineral content), kinanthropometry (length of arms, hands and fingers, bone mineral density and bone mineral content of the forearm), and physical fitness tests (flexibility, strength of the upper and lower body and aerobic capacity measured at a climbing centre).

They found no significant differences between expert and elite climbers in any of the tests performed, except in climbing time to exhaustion and in bone mineral density, both of which were higher in the elite group.

«Therefore, the maximum climbing time to exhaustion of an athlete is the sole determinant of performance», Vanesa Espaqa Romero, the main author of the work and researcher at the University of Granada told SINC.

According to experts, a fundamental characteristic of sport climbing is its «vertical dimension», making it unique given its postural organisation in space, and from a physiological point of view, the effect a gravitational load has on movements.

In short, to complete a climb successfully, athletes should maintain their effort for as long as possible to improve their chances of reaching the ultimate goal.

The study is published in the European Journal of Applied Physiology.
Descargar

Exhaustion may be the only determinant of climber’s performance

Escrito por

Exhaustion may be the only determinant of climber’s performance

The maximum time an athlete takes to become exhausted while climbing may be the only determinant of his/her performance, reveals a new study.

Up till now, performance indicators for climbing have been low body fat percentage and grip strength. Moreover, the existing research was based on the comparison of amateur and expert climbers. he new study led by University of Granada researchers and conducted over 16 high-level climbers shows that the time it takes for an athlete to become exhausted is the only indicator of his/her performance.

The researchers assessed the climbers with body composition tests (weight, height, body mass index, body fat pc, bone mineral density, and bone mineral content), kinanthropometry (length of arms, hands and fingers, bone mineral density and bone mineral content of the forearm), and physical fitness tests (flexibility, strength of the upper and lower body and aerobic capacity measured at a climbing centre).

They found no significant differences between expert and elite climbers in any of the tests performed, except in climbing time to exhaustion and in bone mineral density, both of which were higher in the elite group.

“Therefore, the maximum climbing time to exhaustion of an athlete is the sole determinant of performance”, Vanesa Espaqa Romero, the main author of the work and researcher at the University of Granada told SINC.

According to experts, a fundamental characteristic of sport climbing is its “vertical dimension”, making it unique given its postural organisation in space, and from a physiological point of view, the effect a gravitational load has on movements.

In short, to complete a climb successfully, athletes should maintain their effort for as long as possible to improve their chances of reaching the ultimate goal.

The study is published in the European Journal of Applied Physiology.
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Study analyses physiological parameters of athletes

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Study analyses physiological parameters of athletes

The maximum time an athlete is able to continue climbing to exhaustion may be the only determinant of his/her performance. A new European study, led by researchers from the University of Granada, the objective of which is to help trainers and climbers design training programmes for this type of sport, shows this to be the case.

Until now, performance indicators for climbing have been low body fat percentage and grip strength. Furthermore, existing research was based on the comparison of amateur and expert climbers. Now, a new study carried out with 16 high-level climbers breaks with this approach and reveals that the time it takes for an athlete to become exhausted is the only indicator of his/her performance.

Vanesa Espa-a Romero, the main author of the work and researcher at the University of Granada explains to SINC how «these findings could help trainers or athletes in the design of sport climbing training programmes so that Spain can continue to lead the way in this sporting activity throughout the world».

The study, published in the European Journal of Applied Physiology, analyses the physiological parameters that determine performance in this sport at its highest level. The participants, eight women with an average rating of 7a (the scale of difficulty of a climbing route is graded from 5 to 9, with sub-grades of a, b and c) and eight men with an average rating of 8a, were divided into an «expert group» and an «elite group».

The researchers assessed the climbers with body composition tests (weight, height, body mass index, body fat %, bone mineral density, and bone mineral content), kinanthropometry (length of arms, hands and fingers, bone mineral density and bone mineral content of the forearm), and physical fitness tests (flexibility, strength of the upper and lower body and aerobic capacity measured at a climbing centre).

The results show there to be no significant differences between expert and elite climbers in any of the tests performed, except in climbing time to exhaustion and in bone mineral density, both of which were higher in the elite group. «Therefore, the maximum climbing time to exhaustion of an athlete is the sole determinant of performance», the researcher confirms.

A demanding and vertical practice

Sport climbing began as a form of traditional climbing in the mid 80s, and is now a sport in its own right. The International Federation of Sport Climbing is currently requesting its inclusion as an Olympic sport.

The increase in the number of climbers and the proliferation of climbing centres and competitions have contributed to its interest in recent years, although there is limited scientific literature on climbing effort.

The most important research relates to energy consumption (ergospirometry, heart rate and lactic acid blood concentrations), the designation of maximum strength and local muscular resistance of climbers (dynamometry and electromyography), and to establishing anthropometric characteristics.

According to experts, a fundamental characteristic of sport climbing is its «vertical dimension», making it unique given its postural organisation in space, and from a physiological point of view, the effect a gravitational load has on movements.

In short, to complete a climb successfully, athletes should maintain their effort for as long as possible to improve their chances of reaching the ultimate goal.
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How High Can A Climber Go?

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How High Can A Climber Go?

The maximum time an athlete is able to continue climbing to exhaustion may be the only determinant of his/her performance. A new European study, led by researchers from the University of Granada, the objective of which is to help trainers and climbers design training programs for this type of sport, shows this to be the case.

Until now, performance indicators for climbing have been low body fat percentage and grip strength. Furthermore, existing research was based on the comparison of amateur and expert climbers. Now, a new study carried out with 16 high-level climbers breaks with this approach and reveals that the time it takes for an athlete to become exhausted is the only indicator of his/her performance.

Vanesa España Romero, the main author of the work and researcher at the University of Granada explains to SINC how «these findings could help trainers or athletes in the design of sport climbing training programs so that Spain can continue to lead the way in this sporting activity throughout the world».

The study, published in the European Journal of Applied Physiology, analyses the physiological parameters that determine performance in this sport at its highest level. The participants, eight women with an average rating of 7a (the scale of difficulty of a climbing route is graded from 5 to 9, with sub-grades of a, b and c) and eight men with an average rating of 8a, were divided into an «expert group» and an «elite group».

The researchers assessed the climbers with body composition tests (weight, height, body mass index, body fat %, bone mineral density, and bone mineral content), kinanthropometry (length of arms, hands and fingers, bone mineral density and bone mineral content of the forearm), and physical fitness tests (flexibility, strength of the upper and lower body and aerobic capacity measured at a climbing center).

The results show there to be no significant differences between expert and elite climbers in any of the tests performed, except in climbing time to exhaustion and in bone mineral density, both of which were higher in the elite group. «Therefore, the maximum climbing time to exhaustion of an athlete is the sole determinant of performance», the researcher confirms.

A demanding and vertical practice

Sport climbing began as a form of traditional climbing in the mid 80s, and is now a sport in its own right. The International Federation of Sport Climbing is currently requesting its inclusion as an Olympic sport.

The increase in the number of climbers and the proliferation of climbing centers and competitions have contributed to its interest in recent years, although there is limited scientific literature on climbing effort.

The most important research relates to energy consumption (ergospirometry, heart rate and lactic acid blood concentrations), the designation of maximum strength and local muscular resistance of climbers (dynamometry and electromyography), and to establishing anthropometric characteristics.

According to experts, a fundamental characteristic of sport climbing is its «vertical dimension», making it unique given its postural organization in space, and from a physiological point of view, the effect a gravitational load has on movements.

In short, to complete a climb successfully, athletes should maintain their effort for as long as possible to improve their chances of reaching the ultimate goal.

References: Vanesa España-Romero, Francisco B. Ortega Porcel, Enrique G. Artero, David Jiménez-Pavón, Ángel Gutiérrez Sainz, Manuel J. Castillo Garzón y Jonatan R. Ruiz. «Climbing time to exhaustion is a determinant of climbing performance in high-level sport climbers». European Journal of Applied Physiology (2009) 107:517-525, noviembre de 2009.
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Study Determines How High a Climber Can Go

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Study Determines How High a Climber Can Go

It has been often thought that the maximum time an athlete is able to continue climbing to exhaustion may be the only determinant of his/her performance.

A new European study, led by researchers from the University of Granada, the objective of which is to help trainers and climbers design training programmes for this type of sport, shows this to be the case.

Until now, performance indicators for climbing have been low body fat percentage and grip strength. Furthermore, existing research was based on the comparison of amateur and expert climbers. Now, a new study carried out with 16 high-level climbers breaks with this approach and reveals that the time it takes for an athlete to become exhausted is the only indicator of his/her performance.

Vanesa España Romero, the main author of the work and researcher at the University of Granada explains to SINC how «these findings could help trainers or athletes in the design of sport climbing training programmes so that Spain can continue to lead the way in this sporting activity throughout the world».

The study, published in the European Journal of Applied Physiology, analyses the physiological parameters that determine performance in this sport at its highest level. The participants, eight women with an average rating of 7a (the scale of difficulty of a climbing route is graded from 5 to 9, with sub-grades of a, b and c) and eight men with an average rating of 8a, were divided into an «expert group» and an «elite group».
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Calcul vocal

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Calcul vocal

Résoudre un problème mathématique à haute voix permettrait de gagner en rapidité et en efficacité. De même que dessiner ou réaliser un schéma relatif au contenu du problème contribuerait à en trouver plus rapidement la solution. C\’est ce que montre une étude réalisée à l\’université de Grenade, publiée dans la Revista de investigación psicoeducativa. Les chercheurs affirment que les «représentations jouent un rôle fondamental dans la pensée mathématique et favorisent la compréhension des concepts mathématiques tout en stimulant le développement d\’une pensée plus flexible».
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Granada Hoy

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Pág. 25: ¿Hasta dónde es capaz de llegar un escalador?
Pág. 54: La UGR publica el libro de ponencias “El español del siglo XXI” |La Universidad lanza una revista “on line” sobre Psicología
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Ideal

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Pág. 13: Primera piedra para invertir 108 millones en el PTS |La UGR halla el factor clave en la escalada
Pág. 41: La propuesta de Granada como Capital de la Poesía es sólida y traerá prestigio
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La Universidad de Granada recoge en ‘El español del siglo XXI’ las actas de las XIV Jornadas sobre la Lengua Española

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La Universidad de Granada recoge en \’El español del siglo XXI\’ las actas de las XIV Jornadas sobre la Lengua Española

La Universidad de Granada (UGR) ha editado la publicación \’El español del siglo XXI\’, realizado bajo la coordinación del profesor Esteban Tomás Montoro del Arco, donde, a través de un libro y un CD, se recogen las actas de las XIV Jornadas sobre la lengua española y su enseñanza.

Según informó la universidad en un comunicado, el volumen recoge en papel cuatro aportaciones, mientras que las comunicaciones, mesas redondas y otras actividades, con más de 30 colaboradores, profesores y especialistas, se recogen en el CD que acompaña al libro impreso.

La editorial de la UGR (EUG) ofrece un doble formato para presentar por un lado las conferencias plenarias del encuentro, y por otro, en formato digital, estas mismas conferencias acompañadas de los textos de las demás actividades desarrolladas durante esos días como fueron comunicaciones, talleres y mesas redondas.

El libro toma el nombre del lema de las Jornadas, \’El español del siglo XXI\’. Según afirmó Montoro del Arco, con este trabajo se ha querido «dar cuenta de algunos de los problemas más importantes que, a nuestro juicio, afectan al español en el momento presente».

De esta manera, añadió que «analizan la cuestión de la variación lingüística y, en concreto, el futuro del español en América» y precisó que tuvieron presentes «los nuevos retos a los que se enfrenta el idioma a partir del uso de Internet, así como la aparición de nuevas reglas y formas discursivas vinculadas a los avances tecnológicos».

Por otro lado, el libro también recoge «un acercamiento al papel actual del español en el ámbito translatológico, concepto con el que se hace referencia a un mismo tiempo al conjunto formado por la traducción y la interpretación». Por último, señaló que la publicación se ocupa de «la cuestión normativa y de la posición de la Real Academia Española de la Lengua ante diversos fenómenos de cambio en marcha que está describiendo el español».

Según explicó, entre los analistas que participaron en las jornadas y que ahora se recogen se encuentran la profesora de la Universidad de Valencia y especialista en el español de América Aleza Izquierdo, que habla de la gran repercusión que ha supuesto para todo el mundo hispanohablante la aparición de la «penúltima» obra normativa de la Academia, el \’Diccionario panhispánico de dudas\’, y analiza detalladamente la información sobre América incluida en dicha obra.

Por otro lado, el investigador del Consejo Superior de Investigaciones Científicas y «referencia inexcusable en todo lo relativo a la norma del español», Leonardo Gómez Torrego, analiza «el acierto de las academias en los últimos criterios elegidos para fijar hoy una forma como normativa, el uso culto panhispánico y la regularización de fenómenos vacilantes a favor de la solución más acorde con el sistema».
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¿Hasta dónde puede llegar un escalador?

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¿Hasta dónde puede llegar un escalador?

El tiempo máximo que un deportista es capaz de aguantar escalando hasta el agotamiento podrí­a ser el único determinante de su rendimiento. Así­ lo indica un nuevo estudio europeo liderado por investigadores de la Universidad de Granada, cuyo objetivo es ayudar a entrenadores y escaladores en el diseño de programas de entrenamiento de esta modalidad deportiva.

Hasta ahora, los indicadores del rendimiento en la escalada eran el bajo porcentaje de grasa corporal y la fuerza de prensión manual. Además, las investigaciones existentes se basaban en la comparación entre escaladores principiantes y expertos. Ahora, un nuevo estudio realizado con 16 escaladores de alto nivel rompe con esta dinámica y revela que el tiempo hasta la extenuación del deportista es el único indicativo de su rendimiento.

«Estos hallazgos podrí­an ayudar a entrenadores y deportistas en el diseño de programas de entrenamiento de escalada deportiva con el objetivo de mantener los primeros puestos que España está consiguiendo a nivel mundial en esta modalidad deportiva», explica a SINC Vanesa España Romero, autora principal del trabajo e investigadora de la Universidad de Granada.

El estudio, publicado en el European Journal of Applied Physiology, analiza los parámetros fisiológicos que determinan el rendimiento en este deporte en su más alto nivel. Los participantes, ocho mujeres con un nivel medio de 7a (el baremo de dificultad de una ví­a de escalada con grados de 5 a 9, y subgrados de a, b y c) y ocho hombres con un nivel medio de 8a, fueron divididos en «grupo experto» y «grupo élite».

Los investigadores evaluaron a los escaladores con pruebas de composición corporal (peso, altura, í­ndice de masa corporal, % de grasa corporal, densidad mineral ósea, y contenido mineral óseo), cineantropométricas (longitud de brazos, manos y dedos, densidad mineral ósea y contenido mineral óseo del antebrazo), y pruebas de condición fí­sica (flexibilidad, fuerza del tren superior e inferior y capacidad aeróbica medidas en un rocódromo).

Los resultados muestran que entre escaladores expertos y de élite no hay diferencias significativas en ninguna de las pruebas realizadas, excepto en el tiempo de escalada hasta la extenuación y en la densidad mineral ósea, siendo ambas mayores en el grupo de élite. «Por tanto, el tiempo máximo que el deportista es capaz de aguantar escalando hasta el agotamiento es el determinante exclusivo del rendimiento», confirma la investigadora.

Una práctica exigente y vertical

La escalada deportiva nació como una modalidad de la escalada tradicional a mediados de los años ’80, y hoy es un deporte propio. En la actualidad, la Federación Internacional de Escalada Deportiva demanda su inclusión dentro de los deportes olí­mpicos.

El aumento de escaladores y la proliferación de rocódromos y de competiciones han contribuido a su interés en los últimos años, pero la literatura cientí­fica sobre el esfuerzo en la escalada es escasa.

Las investigaciones más importantes están relacionadas con el consumo energético (ergoespirometrí­a, frecuencia cardí­aca y concentraciones de ácido láctico en sangre), con la designación de la fuerza máxima y la resistencia muscular local de los escaladores (dinamometrí­a y electromiografí­a), y con la fijación de las caracterí­sticas antropométricas.

Según los expertos, una caracterí­stica fundamental de la escalada deportiva es su «dimensión vertical», que determina un contenido único por su organización postural en el espacio, y desde un punto de vista fisiológico, la carga que ejerce el efecto de la gravedad en los desplazamientos.

En definitiva, para culminar con éxito la escalada, los deportistas deberán mantener su esfuerzo todo el tiempo posible para potenciar las posibilidades de alcanzar la última presa.
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