How high can a climber go?

Escrito por

How high can a climber go?

The maximum time an athlete is able to continue climbing to exhaustion may be the only determinant of his/her performance. A new European study, led by researchers from the University of Granada, the objective of which is to help trainers and climbers design training programmes for this type of sport, shows this to be the case. Until now, performance indicators for climbing have been low body fat percentage and grip strength. Furthermore, existing research was based on the comparison of amateur and expert climbers. Now, a new study carried out with 16 high-level climbers breaks with this approach and reveals that the time it takes for an athlete to become exhausted is the only indicator of his/her performance.

Vanesa España Romero, the main author of the work and researcher at the University of Granada explains to SINC how «these findings could help trainers or athletes in the design of sport climbing training programmes so that Spain can continue to lead the way in this sporting activity throughout the world».

The study, published in the European Journal of Applied Physiology, analyses the physiological parameters that determine performance in this sport at its highest level. The participants, eight women with an average rating of 7a (the scale of difficulty of a climbing route is graded from 5 to 9, with sub-grades of a, b and c) and eight men with an average rating of 8a, were divided into an «expert group» and an «elite group».

The researchers assessed the climbers with body composition tests (weight, height, body mass index, body fat %, bone mineral density, and bone mineral content), kinanthropometry (length of arms, hands and fingers, bone mineral density and bone mineral content of the forearm), and physical fitness tests (flexibility, strength of the upper and lower body and aerobic capacity measured at a climbing centre).

The results show there to be no significant differences between expert and elite climbers in any of the tests performed, except in climbing time to exhaustion and in bone mineral density, both of which were higher in the elite group. «Therefore, the maximum climbing time to exhaustion of an athlete is the sole determinant of performance», the researcher confirms.

A demanding and vertical practice

Sport climbing began as a form of traditional climbing in the mid 80s, and is now a sport in its own right. The International Federation of Sport Climbing is currently requesting its inclusion as an Olympic sport.

The increase in the number of climbers and the proliferation of climbing centres and competitions have contributed to its interest in recent years, although there is limited scientific literature on climbing effort.

The most important research relates to energy consumption (ergospirometry, heart rate and lactic acid blood concentrations), the designation of maximum strength and local muscular resistance of climbers (dynamometry and electromyography), and to establishing anthropometric characteristics.

According to experts, a fundamental characteristic of sport climbing is its «vertical dimension», making it unique given its postural organisation in space, and from a physiological point of view, the effect a gravitational load has on movements.

In short, to complete a climb successfully, athletes should maintain their effort for as long as possible to improve their chances of reaching the ultimate goal.
Descargar

How high can a climber go?

Escrito por

How high can a climber go?

The maximum time an athlete is able to continue climbing to exhaustion may be the only determinant of his/her performance. A new European study, led by researchers from the University of Granada, the objective of which is to help trainers and climbers design training programmes for this type of sport, shows this to be the case.

Until now, performance indicators for climbing have been low body fat percentage and grip strength. Furthermore, existing research was based on the comparison of amateur and expert climbers. Now, a new study carried out with 16 high-level climbers breaks with this approach and reveals that the time it takes for an athlete to become exhausted is the only indicator of his/her performance.

Vanesa España Romero, the main author of the work and researcher at the University of Granada explains to SINC how «these findings could help trainers or athletes in the design of sport climbing training programmes so that Spain can continue to lead the way in this sporting activity throughout the world».

The study, published in the European Journal of Applied Physiology, analyses the physiological parameters that determine performance in this sport at its highest level. The participants, eight women with an average rating of 7a (the scale of difficulty of a climbing route is graded from 5 to 9, with sub-grades of a, b and c) and eight men with an average rating of 8a, were divided into an «expert group» and an «elite group».

The researchers assessed the climbers with body composition tests (weight, height, body mass index, body fat %, bone mineral density, and bone mineral content), kinanthropometry (length of arms, hands and fingers, bone mineral density and bone mineral content of the forearm), and physical fitness tests (flexibility, strength of the upper and lower body and aerobic capacity measured at a climbing centre).

The results show there to be no significant differences between expert and elite climbers in any of the tests performed, except in climbing time to exhaustion and in bone mineral density, both of which were higher in the elite group. «Therefore, the maximum climbing time to exhaustion of an athlete is the sole determinant of performance», the researcher confirms.

A demanding and vertical practice

Sport climbing began as a form of traditional climbing in the mid 80s, and is now a sport in its own right. The International Federation of Sport Climbing is currently requesting its inclusion as an Olympic sport.

The increase in the number of climbers and the proliferation of climbing centres and competitions have contributed to its interest in recent years, although there is limited scientific literature on climbing effort.

The most important research relates to energy consumption (ergospirometry, heart rate and lactic acid blood concentrations), the designation of maximum strength and local muscular resistance of climbers (dynamometry and electromyography), and to establishing anthropometric characteristics.

According to experts, a fundamental characteristic of sport climbing is its «vertical dimension», making it unique given its postural organisation in space, and from a physiological point of view, the effect a gravitational load has on movements.

In short, to complete a climb successfully, athletes should maintain their effort for as long as possible to improve their chances of reaching the ultimate goal.

More information: Vanesa España-Romero, Francisco B. Ortega Porcel, Enrique G. Artero, David Jiménez-Pavón, Ángel Gutiérrez Sainz, Manuel J. Castillo Garzón y Jonatan R. Ruiz. «Climbing time to exhaustion is a determinant of climbing performance in high-level sport climbers». European Journal of Applied Physiology (2009) 107:517-525, Nov 2009.
Descargar

Only Exhaustion Influences Climbers’ Performance

Escrito por

Only Exhaustion Influences Climbers\’ Performance

Experts at the University of Granada, in Spain, have recently broken the main line of thought concerning the top performances achievable by a climber. The team, which worked with 16 high-level climbers, says that no other factors influence the performance level of an athlete more than his or her own level of exhaustion, and its threshold. Factors such as the low body-fat percentage and grip strength, which have been touted to be very important until now, ranked way behind exhaustion, the team says.

The goal of the new investigation was to allow trainers and athletes, professional and amateur alike, to design new training programs that would maximize a person\’s natural abilities to their fullest extent. Previous investigations had relied on assessing the differences between professional and amateur climbers, for determining the factors that influenced performance. But this research focused entirely on highly trained individuals. It was thus revealed that the time a climber took before coming to exhaustion was the only clear indicator of their performance.

Details of the new investigation appear in the latest issue of the European Journal of Applied Physiology, the UG team reveals. “These findings could help trainers or athletes in the design of sport climbing training programs so that Spain can continue to lead the way in this sporting activity throughout the world,” the main author of the new journal entry, UG scientist Vanesa Espana Romero, told SINC. She revealed that the physiological parameters that dictated performance in professional climbing were the main factors considered in obtaining the new response.

The researchers accounted for a wide variety of parameters. Among those, they mention weight, height, the body mass index, the body fat percentage, the bone mineral density, and the bone mineral content. Alongside those, the UG group also looked at the length of arms, hands and fingers, the bone mineral density and bone mineral content of the forearm, as well as at features such as flexibility, strength of the upper and lower body, and aerobic capacity measured at a climbing center.

“The maximum climbing time to exhaustion of an athlete is the sole determinant of performance,” the final results of the paper confirm, as per the team. Therefore, the only thing that athletes need to do is sustain their efforts and save their strength for as much as possible. Only so will they be able to make it to the top, and achieve their goals, AlphaGalileo reports.
Descargar

Exhaustion may be the only determinant of climbers performance

Escrito por

Exhaustion may be the only determinant of climbers performance

The maximum time an athlete takes to become exhausted while climbing may be the only determinant of his/her performance, reveals a new study.

Up till now, performance indicators for climbing have been low body fat percentage and grip strength. Moreover, the existing research was based on the comparison of amateur and expert climbers.

The new study led by University of Granada researchers and conducted over 16 high-level climbers shows that the time it takes for an athlete to become exhausted is the only indicator of his/her performance.

The researchers assessed the climbers with body composition tests (weight, height, body mass index, body fat pc, bone mineral density, and bone mineral content), kinanthropometry (length of arms, hands and fingers, bone mineral density and bone mineral content of the forearm), and physical fitness tests (flexibility, strength of the upper and lower body and aerobic capacity measured at a climbing centre).

They found no significant differences between expert and elite climbers in any of the tests performed, except in climbing time to exhaustion and in bone mineral density, both of which were higher in the elite group.

«Therefore, the maximum climbing time to exhaustion of an athlete is the sole determinant of performance», Vanesa Espaa Romero, the main author of the work and researcher at the University of Granada told SINC.

According to experts, a fundamental characteristic of sport climbing is its «vertical dimension», making it unique given its postural organisation in space, and from a physiological point of view, the effect a gravitational load has on movements.

In short, to complete a climb successfully, athletes should maintain their effort for as long as possible to improve their chances of reaching the ultimate goal.

The study is published in the European Journal of Applied Physiology.
Descargar

Exhaustion may be the only determinant of climber’s performance

Escrito por

Exhaustion may be the only determinant of climber\’s performance

The maximum time an athlete takes to become exhausted while climbing may be the only determinant of his/her performance, reveals a new study.

Up till now, performance indicators for climbing have been low body fat percentage and grip strength. Moreover, the existing research was based on the comparison of amateur and expert climbers. he new study led by University of Granada researchers and conducted over 16 high-level climbers shows that the time it takes for an athlete to become exhausted is the only indicator of his/her performance.

The researchers assessed the climbers with body composition tests (weight, height, body mass index, body fat pc, bone mineral density, and bone mineral content), kinanthropometry (length of arms, hands and fingers, bone mineral density and bone mineral content of the forearm), and physical fitness tests (flexibility, strength of the upper and lower body and aerobic capacity measured at a climbing centre).

They found no significant differences between expert and elite climbers in any of the tests performed, except in climbing time to exhaustion and in bone mineral density, both of which were higher in the elite group.

«Therefore, the maximum climbing time to exhaustion of an athlete is the sole determinant of performance», Vanesa Espaqa Romero, the main author of the work and researcher at the University of Granada told SINC.

According to experts, a fundamental characteristic of sport climbing is its «vertical dimension», making it unique given its postural organisation in space, and from a physiological point of view, the effect a gravitational load has on movements.

In short, to complete a climb successfully, athletes should maintain their effort for as long as possible to improve their chances of reaching the ultimate goal.

The study is published in the European Journal of Applied Physiology.
Descargar

Exhaustion may be the only determinant of climber’s performance

Escrito por

Exhaustion may be the only determinant of climber\’s performance

The maximum time an athlete takes to become exhausted while climbing may be the only determinant of his/her performance, reveals a new study.

Up till now, performance indicators for climbing have been low body fat percentage and grip strength. Moreover, the existing research was based on the comparison of amateur and expert climbers.

The new study led by University of Granada researchers and conducted over 16 high-level climbers shows that the time it takes for an athlete to become exhausted is the only indicator of his/her performance.

The researchers assessed the climbers with body composition tests (weight, height, body mass index, body fat pc, bone mineral density, and bone mineral content), kinanthropometry (length of arms, hands and fingers, bone mineral density and bone mineral content of the forearm), and physical fitness tests (flexibility, strength of the upper and lower body and aerobic capacity measured at a climbing centre).

They found no significant differences between expert and elite climbers in any of the tests performed, except in climbing time to exhaustion and in bone mineral density, both of which were higher in the elite group.

«Therefore, the maximum climbing time to exhaustion of an athlete is the sole determinant of performance», Vanesa Espaqa Romero, the main author of the work and researcher at the University of Granada told SINC.

According to experts, a fundamental characteristic of sport climbing is its «vertical dimension», making it unique given its postural organisation in space, and from a physiological point of view, the effect a gravitational load has on movements.

In short, to complete a climb successfully, athletes should maintain their effort for as long as possible to improve their chances of reaching the ultimate goal.

The study is published in the European Journal of Applied Physiology.
Descargar

Exhaustion may be the only determinant of climber’s performance

Escrito por

Exhaustion may be the only determinant of climber’s performance

The maximum time an athlete takes to become exhausted while climbing may be the only determinant of his/her performance, reveals a new study.

Up till now, performance indicators for climbing have been low body fat percentage and grip strength. Moreover, the existing research was based on the comparison of amateur and expert climbers. he new study led by University of Granada researchers and conducted over 16 high-level climbers shows that the time it takes for an athlete to become exhausted is the only indicator of his/her performance.

The researchers assessed the climbers with body composition tests (weight, height, body mass index, body fat pc, bone mineral density, and bone mineral content), kinanthropometry (length of arms, hands and fingers, bone mineral density and bone mineral content of the forearm), and physical fitness tests (flexibility, strength of the upper and lower body and aerobic capacity measured at a climbing centre).

They found no significant differences between expert and elite climbers in any of the tests performed, except in climbing time to exhaustion and in bone mineral density, both of which were higher in the elite group.

“Therefore, the maximum climbing time to exhaustion of an athlete is the sole determinant of performance”, Vanesa Espaqa Romero, the main author of the work and researcher at the University of Granada told SINC.

According to experts, a fundamental characteristic of sport climbing is its “vertical dimension”, making it unique given its postural organisation in space, and from a physiological point of view, the effect a gravitational load has on movements.

In short, to complete a climb successfully, athletes should maintain their effort for as long as possible to improve their chances of reaching the ultimate goal.

The study is published in the European Journal of Applied Physiology.
Descargar

Study analyses physiological parameters of athletes

Escrito por

Study analyses physiological parameters of athletes

The maximum time an athlete is able to continue climbing to exhaustion may be the only determinant of his/her performance. A new European study, led by researchers from the University of Granada, the objective of which is to help trainers and climbers design training programmes for this type of sport, shows this to be the case.

Until now, performance indicators for climbing have been low body fat percentage and grip strength. Furthermore, existing research was based on the comparison of amateur and expert climbers. Now, a new study carried out with 16 high-level climbers breaks with this approach and reveals that the time it takes for an athlete to become exhausted is the only indicator of his/her performance.

Vanesa Espa-a Romero, the main author of the work and researcher at the University of Granada explains to SINC how «these findings could help trainers or athletes in the design of sport climbing training programmes so that Spain can continue to lead the way in this sporting activity throughout the world».

The study, published in the European Journal of Applied Physiology, analyses the physiological parameters that determine performance in this sport at its highest level. The participants, eight women with an average rating of 7a (the scale of difficulty of a climbing route is graded from 5 to 9, with sub-grades of a, b and c) and eight men with an average rating of 8a, were divided into an «expert group» and an «elite group».

The researchers assessed the climbers with body composition tests (weight, height, body mass index, body fat %, bone mineral density, and bone mineral content), kinanthropometry (length of arms, hands and fingers, bone mineral density and bone mineral content of the forearm), and physical fitness tests (flexibility, strength of the upper and lower body and aerobic capacity measured at a climbing centre).

The results show there to be no significant differences between expert and elite climbers in any of the tests performed, except in climbing time to exhaustion and in bone mineral density, both of which were higher in the elite group. «Therefore, the maximum climbing time to exhaustion of an athlete is the sole determinant of performance», the researcher confirms.

A demanding and vertical practice

Sport climbing began as a form of traditional climbing in the mid 80s, and is now a sport in its own right. The International Federation of Sport Climbing is currently requesting its inclusion as an Olympic sport.

The increase in the number of climbers and the proliferation of climbing centres and competitions have contributed to its interest in recent years, although there is limited scientific literature on climbing effort.

The most important research relates to energy consumption (ergospirometry, heart rate and lactic acid blood concentrations), the designation of maximum strength and local muscular resistance of climbers (dynamometry and electromyography), and to establishing anthropometric characteristics.

According to experts, a fundamental characteristic of sport climbing is its «vertical dimension», making it unique given its postural organisation in space, and from a physiological point of view, the effect a gravitational load has on movements.

In short, to complete a climb successfully, athletes should maintain their effort for as long as possible to improve their chances of reaching the ultimate goal.
Descargar

How High Can A Climber Go?

Escrito por

How High Can A Climber Go?

The maximum time an athlete is able to continue climbing to exhaustion may be the only determinant of his/her performance. A new European study, led by researchers from the University of Granada, the objective of which is to help trainers and climbers design training programs for this type of sport, shows this to be the case.

Until now, performance indicators for climbing have been low body fat percentage and grip strength. Furthermore, existing research was based on the comparison of amateur and expert climbers. Now, a new study carried out with 16 high-level climbers breaks with this approach and reveals that the time it takes for an athlete to become exhausted is the only indicator of his/her performance.

Vanesa España Romero, the main author of the work and researcher at the University of Granada explains to SINC how «these findings could help trainers or athletes in the design of sport climbing training programs so that Spain can continue to lead the way in this sporting activity throughout the world».

The study, published in the European Journal of Applied Physiology, analyses the physiological parameters that determine performance in this sport at its highest level. The participants, eight women with an average rating of 7a (the scale of difficulty of a climbing route is graded from 5 to 9, with sub-grades of a, b and c) and eight men with an average rating of 8a, were divided into an «expert group» and an «elite group».

The researchers assessed the climbers with body composition tests (weight, height, body mass index, body fat %, bone mineral density, and bone mineral content), kinanthropometry (length of arms, hands and fingers, bone mineral density and bone mineral content of the forearm), and physical fitness tests (flexibility, strength of the upper and lower body and aerobic capacity measured at a climbing center).

The results show there to be no significant differences between expert and elite climbers in any of the tests performed, except in climbing time to exhaustion and in bone mineral density, both of which were higher in the elite group. «Therefore, the maximum climbing time to exhaustion of an athlete is the sole determinant of performance», the researcher confirms.

A demanding and vertical practice

Sport climbing began as a form of traditional climbing in the mid 80s, and is now a sport in its own right. The International Federation of Sport Climbing is currently requesting its inclusion as an Olympic sport.

The increase in the number of climbers and the proliferation of climbing centers and competitions have contributed to its interest in recent years, although there is limited scientific literature on climbing effort.

The most important research relates to energy consumption (ergospirometry, heart rate and lactic acid blood concentrations), the designation of maximum strength and local muscular resistance of climbers (dynamometry and electromyography), and to establishing anthropometric characteristics.

According to experts, a fundamental characteristic of sport climbing is its «vertical dimension», making it unique given its postural organization in space, and from a physiological point of view, the effect a gravitational load has on movements.

In short, to complete a climb successfully, athletes should maintain their effort for as long as possible to improve their chances of reaching the ultimate goal.

References: Vanesa España-Romero, Francisco B. Ortega Porcel, Enrique G. Artero, David Jiménez-Pavón, Ángel Gutiérrez Sainz, Manuel J. Castillo Garzón y Jonatan R. Ruiz. «Climbing time to exhaustion is a determinant of climbing performance in high-level sport climbers». European Journal of Applied Physiology (2009) 107:517-525, noviembre de 2009.
Descargar

Study Determines How High a Climber Can Go

Escrito por

Study Determines How High a Climber Can Go

It has been often thought that the maximum time an athlete is able to continue climbing to exhaustion may be the only determinant of his/her performance.

A new European study, led by researchers from the University of Granada, the objective of which is to help trainers and climbers design training programmes for this type of sport, shows this to be the case.

Until now, performance indicators for climbing have been low body fat percentage and grip strength. Furthermore, existing research was based on the comparison of amateur and expert climbers. Now, a new study carried out with 16 high-level climbers breaks with this approach and reveals that the time it takes for an athlete to become exhausted is the only indicator of his/her performance.

Vanesa España Romero, the main author of the work and researcher at the University of Granada explains to SINC how «these findings could help trainers or athletes in the design of sport climbing training programmes so that Spain can continue to lead the way in this sporting activity throughout the world».

The study, published in the European Journal of Applied Physiology, analyses the physiological parameters that determine performance in this sport at its highest level. The participants, eight women with an average rating of 7a (the scale of difficulty of a climbing route is graded from 5 to 9, with sub-grades of a, b and c) and eight men with an average rating of 8a, were divided into an «expert group» and an «elite group».
Descargar

Calcul vocal

Escrito por

Calcul vocal

Résoudre un problème mathématique à haute voix permettrait de gagner en rapidité et en efficacité. De même que dessiner ou réaliser un schéma relatif au contenu du problème contribuerait à en trouver plus rapidement la solution. C\’est ce que montre une étude réalisée à l\’université de Grenade, publiée dans la Revista de investigación psicoeducativa. Les chercheurs affirment que les «représentations jouent un rôle fondamental dans la pensée mathématique et favorisent la compréhension des concepts mathématiques tout en stimulant le développement d\’une pensée plus flexible».
Descargar

Granada Hoy

Escrito por

Pág. 25: ¿Hasta dónde es capaz de llegar un escalador?
Pág. 54: La UGR publica el libro de ponencias “El español del siglo XXI” |La Universidad lanza una revista “on line” sobre Psicología
Descargar